With her loyal canine companion Sweetlips, Iva embarked on her very first adventure — to find buried treasure right in her own little hometown of Uncertain, Virginia. Cornelius loved the book so much he read it three times in a row and was thrilled when we told him we were going to surprise Candice at her Book Launch Party. He was hoping he might get to eat some Preacher Cookies like Iva did in the book.
So, on a beautiful sunny Saturday, we headed down to the bbgb Bookstore in Richmond, Virginia — “bbgb” standing for “bring back good books,” “buy a book give a book,” or whatever else you like (Cornelius says, “bears believe in good books”).
Whenever I visit Clifton, Virginia, I always hope to hear the sound of a train whistle. That “woooo-woooooooo” in the distance is lonely, nostalgic and promising. The train is coming! The train is coming! Who’ll be on it?
I love the romance of trains. So many memorable scenes in books and movies take place in trains or at train stations. Remember Anne Shirley setting off for college, leaving Matthew and Marilla Cuthbert behind? Or the train-robbing sequences in Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid? What about Hogwarts Express and Platform 9-3/4, the PolarExpress (love the pjs and cocoa), or those funny scenes with Tony Curtis and Jack Lemmon in drag in SomeLike it Hot? Probably the saddest train scene of all is when Sophie Zawistowski must choose which of her children will board the train for a concentration camp.
Since Clifton is just a hop, skip and a jump away, I can get a train fix whenever I want. This small, charming town grew up around historic Devereux Station, the southernmost post of the Union Army during the Civil War. As soon as I cross those tracks, I step back in time and enter a place of white picket fences, no traffic lights, a general store, a handful of restaurants and antique shops, 19th century houses, and only about 200 residents.
The only railroad crossing in Fairfax County, Virginia
Tucked away at the end of a long winding road, this country retreat was favored by the likes of Theodore Roosevelt, Ulysses S. Grant, Chester A. Arthur, and other wealthy Washington types who enjoyed the saloons, hot springs and slower pace. Modern day visitors include Helen Hayes, who summered here with relatives, Nancy Reagan, George Will, and many Congressmen, Senators, and Supreme Court Justices. And then there’s Jeff Arch, who wrote the screenplay for “Sleepless in Seattle” in a house on Main Street.
My most recent visit to “Virginia’s Brigadoon” was motivated by, you guessed it — food. I’d read an article in the Washington Post awhile ago about the sandwiches at the Main Street Pub, which is located in the Clifton General Store. Actually the big green building, quite an interesting rural landmark, houses three businesses — the store itself, the pub, and a florist.
The general store sells convenience items like cold drinks, a few grocery odds and ends, candy, snacks, baked goods, and pre-wrapped sandwiches. There’s seating for the pub in back and outside with full service.
We were greeted by a candid waitress who cautioned against ordering the gazpacho (“tastes like runny V-8 today”). Just as well: we were after their signature sandwiches.
Hmmmmm. What to order? Tom’s Turkey Melt, BLT, Reuben, Southwest Chicken Wrap, Buffalo Chicken, French Dip, a Burger, Crab Cake, Chicken Salad, Beer Battered Cod, or the aptly named Turbacado (turkey/bacon,avocado)? With a name like that, it had to be good.
So, we split a Turbacado as well as a Chicken Salad on Croissant. I ordered a side of cole slaw, got potato salad by mistake, and ended up getting to have both. I confess I preferred the Turbacado (whole wheat bread toasted just right, very generous fillings) because there were chopped pickles (I think) in the Chicken Salad. I found them a little too overpowering, but that’s just me.
The place filled up quickly with local families, a few tourists and wine tasters, and the laid back atmosphere made for a pleasant meal. Smiling, friendly people who take the time to say hello can be a rare commodity in our highly competitive, fast-paced, busy-busy county.
I like to support family-owned businesses — Tom and Judy McNamara have owned the Clifton General Store for over 20 years, and all of their children take part in business operations, from menu planning to administration to cooking. Couldn’t resist picking up a lemon square on my way out, which Tom himself cheerfully rang up.
Buckley Store Building (est. 1900), former site of the Heart in Hand Restaurant
Our tummies full, we were happy to add another happy memory to our Clifton collection, which includes Clifton Day arts and crafts, leisurely Christmas shopping, many meals at the Heart in Hand Restaurant, and visits to the architect who designed our cozy house in the woods. We didn’t hear a train whistle blow this time, though. Guess we’ll just have to go back. There’s another newish restaurant I want to try: Trummer’s on Main.
Oh, did I mention that when I met Len, he was designing a railroad in Algeria? Trains are magic. All aboard!
♥ Read my post about the Heart in Hand Restaurant, which includes a recipe for Geba’s Iron Skillet Chocolate Pie. (Sad to report that the HIH has since moved to Warrenton, VA.)
Recently, when my parents were visiting from Hawai’i, we drove out to beautiful Charlottesville, Virginia.
Our main objective was lunch at Michie Tavern — an 18th century colonial rest stop serving Southern specialties based on historic recipes. I had been to Charlottesville several times before, thoroughly enjoying Monticello and the University of Virginia campus, but this was our first time at the Tavern. I thought it would be fun to dine near the homes of Jefferson, Monroe, and Madison. Very presidential!
Michie only does a buffet lunch; people wait in line and enter the restaurant at the right of the building. The two hour drive was definitely worth it — take a look at the Bill of Fare:
The fried chicken was so delicious, we all had seconds, but then we were too full to try the peach cobbler for dessert. No matter, I purchased a Michie Tavern Cookbook (cookbooks are my favorite souveniers), and made a batch the other day.
Though they call it a “cobbler,” I would call it a “crisp.” I always thought cobblers had a pie crust on top. Anyway, there’s a pancake-like batter that you pour into the bottom of the baking dish, then you layer the peaches over that, and finally sprinkle the topping over all. Absolutely heavenly!
Jerusalem Baptist Church (formerly Old Payne’s Church), Fairfax, Virginia
Happy Independence Day!!
I’ve been having a wonderful time seeing everyone’s hometowns this week, a great way to say "Happy Birthday" to the USA. Thank you, Cindy, for initiating this challenge! As Anne Marie Pace said yesterday, this experience has also given us the incentive to appreciate what’s in our own back yards.
Take this little white church, for example. We pass it every time we visit our friends, who’ve invited us over for a yummy barbecue today. I’ve always loved how small and quaint it is, but never knew much about it.
Payne’s Church dates back to 1768, was originally made of brick, and owned by the Church of England (Episcopal), until after the Revolutionary War. Colonel George Washington and Truro Parish authorized its construction. In 1840, Jersusalem Baptist Church began to meet here until the outbreak of the Civil War. When Confederate forces occupied the region, they briefly used the church as a hospital. Then Union forces took over, and they tore down the church to use the bricks to build winter quarters. After the war was over, Jersalem Baptist Church needed a meeting place, so they built the small white frame structure we see today.
It only took me 25+ years to learn all this. Thanks to Cindy, I didn’t just drive by, but stopped, peeked in the windows, read the plaque by the front door, and took this photo. The church means something to me now.
Be sure to check out all the other hometowns listed at Cindy’s blog!
Years ago, I became enamoured at the prospect of writing in restaurants and cafes. I picked my places for the good food, of course, but I was sure I would write better if the place had personality.
Well, the entire town of Occoquan is personality plus — lots of character, very charming and quaint.
I’d often walk up this side of the street, sometimes stopping in a couple of antique or gift shops,
looking at stuff like this (you didn’t think I’d go a whole week without a food photo, did you?):
Then I’d meander a little more, until I came to this sign:
My mouth watered as I walked up the narrow steps to a 150-year-old house with terraces and a bumpy brick patio. On the second floor, I found my favorite spot in the back room, in front of a window facing the street. I took out my spiral notebook (no laptops then) and began writing.
In a few minutes, a waitress brought my chicken salad sandwich and a piece of lemon meringue pie. All their pies are homemade and absolutely to die for. I dined in such serenity, gazing onto the street below. Yes, I felt like a real writer.
But I was also too easily distracted, fascinated by the man with a bowtie and his ruddy-cheeked wife. Curious about the stray cat across the street by the rug merchant. Wondering whether the baker used Crisco or butter in his pie crust.
I no longer write in restaurants. It got too expensive, and I ate way more than I needed to. Some of my observations did find their way into some stories, though. Best of all, I got superior service wherever I went, because the servers thought I was a food critic.
Jama's Alphabet Soup 